Category Archives: Finland

Revisiting Finland: Some Things Change, Some Stay the Same

Lake Rikkavesi, Finland, 20 July 2025, 3:45pm (photo by Kate St. John)

23 July 2025

On 13 July I introduced our trip to Finland with photos from 2017 so while I was there I took similar photos for comparison. Some things changed and some stayed the same.

The biggest change was the weather. On our last visit we wore jackets most of the day but this time we wore summer clothes. With lows in the upper 60s and highs at 80°F+ it was dry, very sunny, and felt hot. Climate change has brought Finland hot, dry weather this year while North American mid-latitudes are having heat and heavy downpours. The Finnish Meteorological Service issued Moderate to Severe High Temperature warnings during our entire visit.

While in Helsinki we passed by the Lutheran Cathedral on the tram but did not visit it (too hot!) As you can see it’s under wraps as it undergoes facade maintenance. Compare this to what it usually looks like (click here).

Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral shrouded for facade maintenance, 16 July 2025 (photo by Kate St. John)

To beat the heat in Helsinki many people went walking, running or biking in the early morning at Töölönlahti Park. A few went out on the water among the barnacle geese. I counted 200 geese spending their summer flightless period at the park. [On 29 July the New York Times wrote about the goose problem in Helsinki.]

Barnacle geese on the water at Töölönlahti, Helsinki, 21 July 2025 (photo by Kate St John)

At Rikkavesi lake we stayed in the guest cottage as we had eight years ago. Erkki and his young grandson painted it red with white trim a few years ago. (See it brown in this similar photo from 2017)

The guest cottage (mökki) before sunrise, 18 July 2025, 2:00am, Rikkavesia lake, Finland (photo by Kate St. John)

We hiked at their son’s cottage near Bromarf where the landscape looks a lot like Maine.

Hiking with friends near Bromarf, 18 July 2025 (photo by Kate St. John)

And we made sure to visit the cows, most of whom no longer wear udder support. The old farmer retired. The new farmer put straps on only one cow.

Cows cooling their heels on a hot day at Rikkavesi lake, Finland, 20 July 2025 (photo by Rick St. John)

We enjoyed our time with friends and relaxed with delicious Finnish food from the garden and lake. Our friend Helena is an excellent cook.

Kate, Erkki, Helena at dinner by the lake, 20 July 2025 (photo by Rick St. John)

That evening after a very hot day the wind picked up and made it feel much cooler close to shore. At 1:00am on 21 July the sun was lower than on 1 July 2017 when I took a similar photo. Three weeks make a difference in the amount of sunlight. (Click here to see 1:00am on 1 July 2017)

Lake Rikkavesi, Finland, 1:00 am, 21 July 2025 (photo by Kate St. John)

We are very glad we visited.

Flying Home

Barn swallow in flight (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

22 July 2025, flying home from Finland

Today as we’re flying home from Finland I’m musing on the fact that I have seen barn swallows (Hirundo rustica) on nearly every trip abroad. This is not surprising since they are the most abundant and widespread swallow on earth. They occur on all continents because they are vagrants to Antarctica.

Of course I saw them in Finland.

Barn swallow range map from Wikimedia Commons

“Swallow Tails” are one of the barn swallows’ most important features. Here are some Cool Facts about them.

  • “According to legend, the Barn Swallow got its forked tail because it stole fire from the gods to bring to people. An angry deity hurled a firebrand at the swallow, singeing away its middle tail feathers.” — All About Birds: Barn Swallow
  • “Barn swallows are capable of sharper turns and dives than other swallows. This increased maneuverability in flight is a consequence of the highly forked tail.” — Birds of the World: Barn Swallow
  • The length of the tail streamers is very important. Studies in Ontario have shown that the longer the male’s tail, the better success he has in attracting a mate and nesting early. In Europe “tail length and degree of asymmetry in the outer tail feathers have been found to be predictors of individual quality in both males and females and those traits are used when selecting mates.” Everything — from breeding to annual survival — works best for the longest tailed barn swallows in Europe. — Birds of the World: Barn Swallow

When I get home I’ll see barn swallows in Pittsburgh. I’ll be sure to check out their tails.

Mammoth or Mastodon?

Woolly mammoth figure at Kuopio Museum, Finland, July 2017 (photo by Kate St. John)

21 July 2025

On our previous trip to Finland we visited Kuopio Museum where one of the main attractions is the woolly mammoth replica, above. Unveiled in 1999, he was modeled after a well-preserved frozen mammoth found in 1799 in Siberia’s Lena River valley. At its death the frozen mammoth was about 30 years old, weighed 5,000 to 5,500 pounds (more than 2.5 tons) and stood over three meters (over 10 feet) at the shoulder[1]. For a sense of scale that’s my husband gazing at the mammoth.

When I saw the Kuopio mammoth I couldn’t help but think of a 2006 New Yorker cartoon by Alex Gregory that shows a caveman and his wife looking at a slain beast he’d brought home for dinner. And she says, “This is mastodon. I told you to get mammoth.”(<– Click the link to see the cartoon) Her shopping complaint has stayed with me ever since and made me wonder about the animals.

  1. Were mammoths and mastodons alive at the same time?
  2. Did their ranges overlap? If so, where?
  3. Did humans encounter both beasts?
  4. Supposing #3 is true, how did Mrs. Caveman tell the difference between a mammoth and a mastodon?

Mammoths (Mammuthus sp.) are 4 evolutionary splits away from a common ancestor with mastodons, and they have a living relative, the Asian elephant (Elephas maximus). Mastodons (Mammut sp.) were a stand alone branch that went extinct without splitting into descendants.

Cladogram of Elephantimorpha: Mastodon and Mammoth (chart from Wikipedia)

1. Were woolly mammoths and American mastodons alive at the same time? Yes.

Woolly mammoths (Mammuthus primigenius) first evolved from steppe mammoths in eastern Siberia around 700,000 to 300,000 years ago and spread across northern Asia, Europe, and North America. Most of them went extinct 11,000 years ago. The last population remained on Wrangel Island in the Arctic Ocean and went extinct 4,000 years ago.

Mastodons (Mammut sp.) first appeared around 27 to 30 million years ago. A well known species, Mammut americanus, became widespread in North America during the Pleistocene Epoch (2.78 million to 11,000 years ago) and went extinct about 11,000 years ago.

2. Did their ranges overlap and where? Yes. Notably in North America.

The woolly mammoth had a circumpolar range as shown on this map from arcticportal.org. Amazingly mammoths were present in both southern Finland and Pittsburgh (top edge of map). (Click on the image to see an annotated version that points to both locations.)

Map from arcticportal.org, The Arctic Gateway, source Science News (Ralf-Dietrich Kahlke)

I have been unable to find a range map for mastodons but this fossil site map of two species, M. americanum and M. pacificus, shows that mastodons were widely distributed in North America. The northern part of their range would have overlapped with the woolly mammoth.

Fossil distribution of masotdons Mammut pacificus and Mammut americanum (from Wikimedia Commons)

3. Did humans encounter both beasts? Yes. A Wikipedia excerpt about mastodons explains that they killed both. With so many woolly mammoth kill sites compared to mastodons, did Clovis people prefer mammoths? Or were they just easier to catch?

As of present, 2 definite Mammut [mastodon] kill sites compatible with Clovis lithic technology have been recorded compared to 15 of Mammuthus [woolly mammoth] and 1 of Cuvieronius [yet another elephant relative].

Wikipedia: Mastodon

4. How did Mrs. Caveman tell the difference between a mammoth and a mastodon?

Mammoth or Mastodon? This one is easy.

Woolly mammoths (Mammuthus primigenius) had tusks that circled back on themselves.

Woolly mammoth replica in Royal BC Museum in Victoria (image from Wikimedia Commons)

Mastodon species had much straighter tusks.

Mastodon replica created in Adobe Photoshop (image from Wikimedia Commons)

And their teeth were noticeably different. See the National Park Service’s Mastodon or Mammoth article for details. Mrs. Caveman knew what she was talking about.


[1] This portion of the opening paragraph is paraphrased from Wikipedia: Kuopio Museum.

Invasive in Finland But Not in Pennsylvania

Garden lupine (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

20 July 2025, in Finland

It’s likely that every place on earth now has invasive plants and many of them are the same species popping up everywhere. We’re now in Finland where their invasive plants list includes two that are also invasive in Pennsylvania — giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) — but we’ve also seen two species that are invasive in Finland and don’t even grow wild in PA.

Lupines (Lupinus) are a beautiful flowering genus of 199 species, most of which are native to North and South America. Often cultivated in gardens, they’ve escaped to the wild in Scandinavia and New Zealand and are now invasive.

Garden lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus) is native to western North America from Alaska to Utah and was intentionally planted to beautify roadsides in Finland.

Invasive lupine along the road in Finland (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

But now it is everywhere. I thought these flowers by the railroad were part of a beautification project. Nope. They’re invaders.

Lupine seen along the railroad in Finland, July 2017 (photo taken from the train by Kate St. John)

Himalayan balsam (Impatiens glandulifera) is an annual plant with high seed production that followed the same trajectory as giant hogweed and Japanese knotweed.

In the UK, the plant was first introduced in 1839, at the same time as giant hogweed and Japanese knotweed. These plants were all promoted at the time as having the virtues of “herculean proportions” and “splendid invasiveness” which meant that ordinary people could buy them for the cost of a packet of seeds to rival the expensive orchids grown in the greenhouses of the rich.

Wikipedia: Himalayan Balsam

Indeed Himalayan balsam is splendidly invasive but because it prefers a cooler climate it invades the northern latitudes and does not grow wild in PA.

Himalayan balsam (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Though it is an annual it produces lots of seeds which pop when the seed pod is touched.

Himalayan balsam with unexploded seed pods (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

You might notice its resemblance to our native jewelweeds — for instance yellow jewelweed (Impatiens pallida) or pale touch-me-not — whose seed pods also pop.

Yellow jewleweed with bumblebee, August 2018 (photo by Kate St John)

Read more about invasive species in Kuopio, Finland near where we’re visiting. The Spanish slug is on their list. Eewww!

Udder Support

These cows have udders so heavy that they must wear bras, near Rikkavesi lake, Finland
Some of these cows have udders so heavy that they wear bras, near Lake Rikkavesi, Finland, July 2017

19 July 2025, in Finland

Pennsylvania is a big dairy farming state, ranked 8th in the U.S. in dairy production, yet for all the cows I’ve seen grazing Pennsylvania fields I’d never seen one wearing an udder support bra until I visited Finland eight years ago. Obviously this cow has a very large udder so she benefits in several ways.

In 1963 Dutch veterinarian, Evert J.S. Bron, invented a “cow bra” for animals with large udders designed to …

  • prevent damage or further elongation of the suspensory ligaments in large udders
  • prevent mastitis (inflammation of the udder)
  • prevent the cow from stepping on its teats when it stands up and/or dragging them on the ground because they hang so low.

Siberian and Nordic dairy farmers sometimes cover cow udders in winter to keep them warm so it wasn’t a stretch for a Finnish dairy farmer to adopt the support net. It’s even been adopted at a farm in Brazil after the Brazilian manager visited Iceland. See Dairy Global: Unique udder support method in the spotlight.

Support is also available in the U.S.

Screenshot June 2025: Cow udder support can be purchased in the U.S. at Caprine Supply, located in DeSoto, KS

p.s. The breed of cow pictured at top is the Swedish red-and-white.

Trumpeting and Whooping

Trumpeter swan pair, Missouri (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

18 July 2025, in Finland

Swans!

There are two species of large swans on earth who happen to be closely related. The trumpeter swan (Cygnus buccinator), above, lives in North America, the whooper swan (Cygnus cygnus) in Eurasia. Both are named for their voices.

Trumpeters make a trumpeting noise.

Because they nest at Ottawa National Wildlife Refuge, Ohio I hear and see them when I visit Magee Marsh during warbler migration.

Nesting trumpeter swan (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Their range in North American is a legacy of their near extinction in 1933 and reintroduction throughout the northern U.S. and Canada.

Trumpeter swan range map from eBird Status and Trends

The whooper swan (pronounced “hooper” Cygnus cygnus) has a much wider range and happens to be the national bird of Finland. In Finnish its name is laulujoutsen (low’-loo yoy-tsen).

Whooper swans (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Though the whooper swan is slightly smaller than the trumpeter, the big difference between them is that whoopers have extensive yellow on their bills whose pattern varies by individual. Like fingerprints, the shape of the yellow wash can be used to identify individual whoopers. Trumpeter bills are all black.

Whooper swan closeup of head and bill (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Whooper swans nest on the lake where our Finnish friends have a cottage. At night I hear the whoopers call to each other across the lake.

wingbeats and calling in flight, Finland
(willow warbler in the background)

Whoopers even have disagreements, much like Canada geese.

Whooper swans interacting and calling (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

The two species can hybridize but rarely meet because they live in separate hemispheres.

Whooper swan range map from eBird Status and Trends

Trumpeting or whooping, I like the whoopers best.

I Hope to See Cranes

Common cranes in flight (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

17 July 2025

On my last visit to Finland eight years ago I was thrilled to see common cranes (Grus grus). Back then their global population was estimated to be half a million strong — and increasing — with “by far the largest breeding populations in Russia, Finland and Sweden.” Considering their preference for Finland, it shouldn’t be hard to find some on this visit.

In the breeding season common cranes prefer “wooded swamps, bogs and wetlands and seem to require quiet, peaceful environs with minimal human interference.” That’s a good description of Finland. Cranes can nest in peace in the countryside because 28% Finland’s 5.6 million people live in metro Helsinki.

Common cranes in Turkey (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Last time I visited, in July 2017, I’d mistakenly assumed I would see flocks of common cranes, but of course that’s not true when they’re nesting. During the breeding season common cranes occur at low density, typically 1 to 5 pairs per 100 km2 (39 sq mi). Each pair’s territory can be more than 1,000 acres.

Chances are I will hear common cranes before I see them. They are much louder than sandhills. (Click here to listen to sandhill cranes.)

Common crane calling (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Despite their sound they look quite elegant.

Common cranes in Europe (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

If you want to see common cranes outside the breeding season, visit them in the brown areas on this map. {The other colors are breeding (purple), wintering (brown) and year-round(green).} Interestingly, eBird’s map shows them year-round in Germany and Poland but, due to lack of eBirders in Africa, the Nile valley wintering grounds are not listed.

Range of the common crane (Grus grus); map from Wikimedia Commons [Purple=breeding, Brown=non-breeding(winter), Green=year-round]

City Owl Learns to Fly

Eurasian eagle-owl closeup (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

16 July 2025

Eurasian eagle owls (Bubo bubo) span the continent from Norway and Spain to the Russian Far East, the Koreas, and China. Because they have been persecuted by people they are very sensitive to human disturbance in Sweden and will abandon eggs and even nestlings.

In some places they nest in parks, such as this owl family in southern Germany.

(video from Wikimedia Commons)

But the most amazing were the city owls who moved into Helsinki about 20 years ago when the rabbit population grew large. One of them became famous by “crashing” a soccer playoff at Helsinki Olympic Stadium(*).

A wild Eurasian eagle-owl, “Bubi,” flies at Helsinki Olympic Stadium, 6 June 2007 (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Another pair nested above a city street in 2011. One of their youngsters miscalculated a short airborne hop and his mistake became an adventure. He had his first city tour complete with a fire department rescue from the top of the “Southern Fried Chicken” sign.

Watch as the city eagle owl learns to fly.

video embedded from Eagleowl 321 on YouTube

Eurasian eagle owls are not reported anymore in Helsinki’s city center. I suspect that they left when the rabbit population returned to normal.

p.s. More about the celebrity owl at the stadium: On 6 June 2007 the Euro 2008 Finland-vs-Belgium qualifying match was being held at the stadium when an eagle owl landed on the field and flew to the goal posts. The game was suspended during the owl’s visit while the crowd cheered “Huuhkaja!” (Finnish common name for the owl). Finland won the game 2-0, the owl was nicknamed Bubi and “Helsinki Citizen of the Year,” and  Finland’s soccer team was nicknamed the “Eurasian Eagle Owls.” See a video of Bubi’s game-time visit here

Barnacle Geese at Home

Barnacle geese with nearly full grown goslings at Töölönlahti park, Helsinki, 6 July 2017 (photo by Kate St. John)

15 July 2025

When I visited Finland eight years ago I saw barnacle geese (Branta leucopsis) from the train on our way to Helsinki. I was very excited — Life Bird! — but when I mentioned them to our Finnish friends they said the geese were problem birds in Finland and outside their normal range.

As you can see from this Wikipedia map, the mapmaker considers resident barnacle geese in Finland, Sweden and Estonia to be “feral” descendants of domesticated birds. However, these locations are on the birds’ migratory route; some may be stopover visitors who decided to stay.

Distribution of barnacle geese highlighting the studied population in 2021-22 (map from Wikimedia Commons)

Apparently that’s what happened in the Baltic Sea area. Birds of the World explains how barnacle geese expanded their range.

Prior to 1971, the Barnacle Goose’s breeding range was limited to the Arctic, but during that year a pair bred in Gotland, Sweden, along the shores of the Baltic Sea. Soon, there was a colony established on Gotland as well as colonies elsewhere along the Baltic Sea coast and adjacent waters in Sweden, southern Finland, western Estonia, and the Danish Island of Saltholm. In the early 1980s, additional breeding colonies were established in the southwestern Netherlands and in Germany during the late 1980s. Most of the colonies in Europe’s temperate zone grew rapidly, with a population of 42,000–55,000 birds in 2006, and 52,000 birds in the Netherlands alone in 2012.

…Birds from the Barents Sea population [which was growing 7% per year] were demonstrated to have founded the first breeding colonies in Schleswig-Holstein, Germany, as well as being the source of colonies in the Netherlands. However, free-flying birds of captive origin have been found in many temperate European colonies, and the role that they may have played is unclear.

Birds of the World: Barnacle Goose account, slightly paraphrased

Last March some Pittsburgh area birders wondered if this barnacle goose was feral. He was not because he lacked the tags / markings that indicate human ownership.

Barnacle goose at Creighton, PA 30 March 2025 (photo by Kate St. John)

This goose was just very far from home.

On Our Way to the Happiest Country in the World

Lake Rikkavesi, Finland, July 2017 (photo by Kate St. John)

13 July 2025

This spring, for the eighth year in a row, Finland was rated the happiest country in the world by the World Happiness Report. Unfortunately the U.S. lost ground and fell to #23, our lowest ever position on the happiness scale since the report began in 2012.

Today my husband and I are flying to Finland with a one night stopover in the 3rd happiest country, Iceland. This is our third visit to Finnish friends whom we’ve known since Erkki was a foreign exchange student at our high school. I’m looking forward to lots of happiness.

The map below shows our locations: Pittsburgh (P), Iceland (orange) and Finland (red). On Icelandair we only have to change planes once, in Reykjavik.

map of the world from Wikimedia Commons highlighting: Finland=red, Iceland=orange, Pittsburgh=P

While in Helsinki we will stay across the street from Töölönlahti bay.

View of Töölönlahti from Helsinki Olympic Tower (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Even from afar we will be able to see Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral, one of the most famous buildings in Finland. The steps to its plaza look like a wall in this photo.

Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

After a couple of days in the city we will visit the countryside at Erkki and Helena’s summer cottage at Lake Rikkavesi and their son’s cottage on a peninsula near the Baltic Sea. Lake Rikkavesi is pictured at the top of this article, the guest cottage below. In 2017 it glowed at 3:30am, just after sunrise on 2 July.

At the cottage after sunrise, 3:34am, Rikavesia lake, Finland
The guest cottage (mökki) after sunrise, 2 July 2017, 3:34am, Rikkavesi lake, Finland (photo by Kate St. John)

Summer cottage life is one of the things that makes Finland such a happy place.

The Nordic lifestyle is closely linked to nature and the highly anticipated but short lived summer season. The most popular and ideal way to spend the summer months in Finland is in a lakeside cottage surrounded by nature. This tradition is grounded in traditional culture and lifestyle and forms an important part of the Finnish national landscape. Many Finns consider the cottage to balance out city life.

Cottage Culture in Finland: Development and Perspectives

There are 5 million people in Finland and 500,000 rural cottages, called mökki. About 50% of the Finnish population visits a cottage on a regular basis.

Most of the cottages are modest in size as shown in these Finnish summer cottage facts from Mökkibarometri 2025:

  • The average cottage is 91 kilometers (56 miles) from home and 70 square meters in size. (753 sq ft, about the size of a one bedroom apartment.)
  • 75% of cottages are connected to the electricity grid.
  • Solar panels are in use at 19% of cottages and heat pumps at 34%.
  • Fixed broadband is installed in 12%. (Cell coverage is so good in Finland that I never needed WiFi at the cottage.)
  • 55% of owners bring their drinking water to their cottage.
  • Most cottages are owned by older people. 55% of owners are retired.
  • Shared ownership has increased. This is the case, for example, with cottages owned by heirs.

Even though it sounds like a lot of cottages, the lakes seem remote. Buildings do not crowd the edges of lakes as they do in the U.S. and the lights of other cottages do not shine across the water at night.

On walks in the area with my husband Rick, Erkki, and his wife Helena in 2017 we saw lots of trees …

Hiking around the peninsula, 2 July 2017, Rikkavesi lake, Finland (photo by Kate St. John)

… and cows at this dairy farm, but we did not encounter other people.

A dairy farm in Tuusniemi, Finland, July 2017 (photo by Kate St. John)

I’ve marked this map of Finland with blue “X”s at the four places we will visit.

We’ll relax, enjoy time with friends, and be happy in the land of the midnight sun.

The darkest time of night, 1:00am, 4 July 2017, Finland

There will be birds, too. More on that later.